Why did I wander out to Long Island on a steamy day, traveling some 14 miles from the center of the American restaurant scene to a dumpy place at the end of a New York City subway line?

• 我为什么要冒着炎炎烈日，从美式餐厅云集的纽约市中心前往长岛，奔波14英里，来到地铁线最末端一个不起眼的小地方？